CLIMBING: When the Nanjing 2014 Youth Olympic Games kick off in August, there will be several events without any medals on offer: Roller Sports, Skateboarding, Sport Climbing and Wushu. These demonstration sports have been included by the International Olympic Committee to boost their profile, giving each sport a glimmer of hope to evolve into an Olympic event one day.
Olympics.com.au caught up with Matthew Tsang who will represent Australia in Sport Climbing. Tsang is Australia’s only competitor in the demonstration sports in Nanjing.
Q: How did you get started in sport climbing and what do you like about it?
Matthew: How I got into rock-climbing as a sport really comes down to my parents. I was always an active and energetic child, climbing tall trees, playground equipment and the like. A friend told them about this climbing gym close by which seemed to be a safe alternative. The first day I was hooked, and here we are.
What has continually enticed me to the sport has been in the raw power and freedom of movement. Putting yourself into crazy positions and manoeuvring your body to complete a climb are all typical scenarios. It's just so incredibly satisfying for me to push my body so dynamically and make it to the top of climbs that just look ridiculous or not at all possible!
Q: What has been your biggest result to date?
Matthew: My best result in a competition so far would have to be back in 2011 coming second in Open A for both Nationals and Oceania Lead Titles. However the most satisfying for me personally was coming second in a state competition in Queensland against an international superstar of the sport- Paul Robinson!
Q: Explain why you are excited about Nanjing. What do you think it will be like?
Matthew: I'm excited for Nanjing for many reasons! First of all it's the Olympics! Just the name and what it signifies is a humbling and exciting opportunity for any athlete.
Having competed in international competitions previously, it is always fun to compete alongside other international athletes. It's really motivating to see how good everyone is, alongside making new friends and bonding.
I'm not sure what to expect of Nanjing. The competition format is different, but should be fun and a little more relaxed due to the nature of being a demonstration sport. I think it will be on a similar- if not larger- scale to the climbing World Youth Championships. I'm hoping it to be challenging and engaging experience.
Q: Is Climbing a good sport for young people? How popular is it in Australia?
Matthew: Climbing is a sport, and like many sports has inherent risks. Despite this, I think it's a great sport for youths. The physical benefits I believe are obvious, and it also builds a lot of confidence and mental strength as well.
Something that makes it different to a majority of other sports is the mentality of it which is strengthened by the community. Everyone is very positive as you're striving to improve and better yourself, rather than pushing others down. Yes it is competitive at times, but you all share beta (tips and tricks) alongside each other giving each person an equal and best chance for their own success.
Climbing in Australia is in a funny position. It isn't considered by the public to be a typical sport. Despite this, it seems a popular activity for younger people. I think that if climbing was to have exposure as a sport, we would see a large boom in popularity, but as of now it is predominantly a recreational activity.
Q: What would gaining Olympic status mean to your sport?
Matthew: I believe gaining Olympic status would be huge for climbing. What it's currently lacking is exposure to a wider audience. Many people have tried climbing for recreation, never realising the competitive side to it. I believe that there would be a steep increase in interest for climbing in general. With a larger audience, the sport itself would grow and flourish.
Q: What is your ultimate goal in Climbing?
Matthew: One of the great things about climbing is that you're pushing yourself. You can always get stronger, you can always climb harder. Sure, you can win a big competition, but there will always be something more challenging ahead.
In terms of competitive goals I would say that I hope to one day podium in a Bouldering World Cup. A long shot, but hey dream big!
Joining Tsang at the 2014 Youth Olympic Games is an Australian Youth Olympic Team of 89 athletes aged 14-18 headed up by Chef de Mission, Susie O’Neill.
Before heading to Nanjing, Tsang will compete in the 2014 National Lead Climbing Championships will be held in Melbourne from 19-20 July. For more information visit http://www.sportclimbingaustralia.org.au/
Taya Conomos
olympics.com.au
@AUSOlympicTeam